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to ensure the correct measurements of the final repair.
D B
A
E
C
H
G
F
A - OVERALL MLW
B - UPPER MLW
C - LOWER MLW
D - RESERVE RISER
E - CHEST STRAP
F - UPPER LEG STRAP
G - LOWER LEG STRAP
H - HORIZONTAL BACK STRAP
BACKPAD
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Figure A
Marking pencils
Scissors and thread snips
Exacto® knife or scalpel
Hemostats
Ty-4 1" tape—color to match
Ty-3 tape—color to match
1 1/2" Velcro®—hook and loop
1" Velcro®—hook and loop
STEP TWO.
Teardown and cleanup is the second most important part of the process. It is important that all the
old thread, glue, and damaged webbing are removed. Leaving any of these in place and sewing over
them will result in a poor appearance. Also, it is not uncommon to find additional damage or wear at
this point that was not identified during the initial inspection process.
STEP THREE.
After the teardown and cleanup, the replacement webbing can be measured, cut, and pre-sewn in
preparation for installation to the harness assembly. The construction sequence is followed. In certain
cases, it may be desirable to replace not just damaged parts but worn ones to give the final result
a more cosmetic appearance. An example is when replacing a main lift web, it does not look good to
reuse the old chest strap webbing when the main lift web is new material.
STEP FOUR.
After the repair is completed, a thorough quality control program is undertaken. This is especially
critical in a situation where the rigger is working alone and there is no one to rely on for crosschecking
the work. All the critical points of the repair must be identified and checked as well as
the finished dimensions.
PROCEDURE
1.0 DISASSEMBLY:
1.1 Remove all housings, leg pads, and any other parts that may interfere with the work from the
harness.
Disassemble the leg strap/horizontal back strap junction [Figure B].
Disconnect the upper main lift web (MLW) from the yoke
portion of the backpad if necessary.
1.2 Disassemble the junction of the diagonal back strap and
main lift web at the 3-ring attachment point [Figure C]. Be
very careful not to damage the diagonal back strap. If it is
damaged, it is a major project to replace this on most assemblies.
1.3 Lay out the main lift web assembly and check the measurements
against the initial dimensions. Check against the
opposite side MLW for symmetry.
1.4 If this side of the harness has a TSO or identification label
attached, carefully remove it for use on the new assembly. If
it is damaged, it may be necessary to get a new label to
replace it. Contact the manufacturer for guidance. They may
require the rigger to return the old label in exchange for a
new one.
2.0 REASSEMBLY:
2.1 Note that this configuration consists primarily of two main pieces of webbing. The front
MLW is TY-7 webbing and the rear is TY-8.
2.2 Measure the new webbing for the main lift webs. Add 5" for the riser end fold back and allow
at least 6" extra for shrinkage. While this may sound like a lot, nothing is more discouraging
than to get to the end of the project and find that the webbing is short by an inch or two. A
couple inches of scrap is a small price to pay at this point.
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2.3 Starting at one end of the webbing, measure the riser end configuration. Fold back and glue
in place. If there is a toggle stow loop on the old harness, do not forget to glue in place before
sewing [Figure D]. Mark the 4 point W-W pattern and sew with the harness machine and 5-
cord nylon thread.
2.4 Install the steering line guide ring with a duplicate stitch pattern as per the original [Figure
E]. In some instances, the manufacturer may have used a special bar tack or other stitch pattern
to attach the ring. If the rigger does not have the same machine, it will be necessary to
contact the manufacturer for an acceptable alternative. This should have been identified in
phase one. Check the distance from the end of the riser to the top of the ring. The industry
standard is 4", but there may be special dimensions for some applications.
2.5 Install the toggle Velcro® keepers as per the original [Figure F]. Complete any other sewing
needed such as the end of the toggle stow loop.
2.6 If needed, reattach the TSO label at the appropriate location. If the label is the original one
and is made from material such as Ty-vek®, try to follow the original needle holes to avoid
perforating the material. Too many holes will cause the label to tear out.
2.7 Working from the measurement diagram in Figure A, mark the location of the 3-ring.
　
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